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How many skincare products do you really need? The dose, not the product

Most skin is well served by three basic steps: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and sun protection in the morning — plus one product for one goal, if you need it. The difference rarely comes from a new product; it comes from the dose: how often, how much, in what order and on which part of the face.

Why can too many products harm your skin?

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) is clear: using too many products can irritate the skin, especially when several of them do the same job, and that can make the very thing you are trying to fix more noticeable. Trying new products too often, the AAD adds, irritates the skin and causes breakouts on its own.

Irritated skin does not care whether a product was expensive or cheap. It reacts to the amount, the mix and the frequency. Every extra product also means extra ingredients your skin may react to — the AAD notes that even a preservative can trigger an allergic reaction.

What basic steps are enough for most skin?

The AAD suggests a simple three-step approach: cleanse, moisturise, protect. In detail:

What does «the dose, not the product» mean?

It means the same product can soothe or upset your skin depending on how often you use it and how much you apply.

One woman I worked with was sure her cleanser was the problem. We did not change it — we only reduced how often she used it, and the tightness was gone by the next day. Another was looking for a stronger moisturiser, and her dryness turned out to come from habits at home.

Most of the times you feel you have «tried everything and nothing worked», the product was not wrong. The dose, the order or the timing was.

In what order should I apply my products?

The AAD says the order affects how well products work, and recommends this sequence: wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry; then any medicine or targeted product you use; then moisturiser and/or sunscreen; and make-up last. Around the eyes, use your ring finger, the weakest finger, so you do not pull on the delicate skin.

How do I try a new product without upsetting my skin?

One new product at a time, not three. The AAD recommends testing it first on a small patch — such as the inside of your arm or the bend of your elbow — twice a day for 7 to 10 days, using the amount you would normally use. If there is no redness, itching or swelling, go ahead. If there is, wash it off and stop.

With strong ingredients, introduce them gradually — like the woman who tried her serum on her jawline for three nights before putting it on her whole face.

Are expensive products better?

The AAD says products do not need to be expensive to be effective, and that using fewer of them saves money and spares your skin. What matters is that a product suits your skin type, and that it is labelled non-comedogenic if you are prone to breakouts.

Among the AAD's ideas for using fewer products: a dual-function product, such as a moisturiser with sunscreen, saves a whole morning step. And petroleum jelly is an inexpensive product with several uses, including moisturising dry skin.

Quick questions

How many products does a skincare routine need?

Most skin is well served by three steps according to the AAD: cleanse, moisturise and protect from the sun — plus one extra product for one goal, if needed.

How do I test a new skincare product safely?

According to the AAD: on a small patch such as the inside of your arm, twice a day for 7 to 10 days. If there is no irritation, go ahead.

Your plan, not a general one

Everything above is general guidance from the sources. What suits your skin, in which order and how often is what Amina arranges once she has read your skin — and she follows you on it every day.

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Sources

  1. AAD — Should I apply my skin care products in a certain order?
  2. AAD — Skin care on a budget
  3. AAD — How to test skin care products
  4. AAD — Acne: tips for managing