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Oily skin and shine: what actually reduces it

Shine eases when you stop what pushes your skin to produce more oil: harsh cleansers, scrubbing, alcohol-based products and skipping moisturiser. The base dermatologists recommend is simple: a gentle cleanser twice a day, a light non-comedogenic moisturiser, and sunscreen every morning.

Why does my face shine even after I wash it?

Because the tight, «squeaky clean» feeling after cleansing is temporary. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) explains that a cleanser that is too harsh irritates the skin and can trigger more oil production — so what feels like the solution becomes part of the problem.

I see this often: a woman washes her face three or four times a day with a strong cleanser to fight shine, and the shine gets worse by the end of the day. The answer is usually not a stronger cleanser; it is a gentler one.

Is oily skin a bad thing?

No. The AAD points out that oily skin has real benefits: oil helps preserve the skin, and people with oily skin tend to have thicker skin and fewer wrinkles. The problem is not the oil itself; it is when there is too much of it, clogging pores and causing breakouts.

So the goal is not to dry your skin out. The goal is balance: less oil on the surface, enough moisture underneath. That is why harsh cleansers are not the answer: we want to reduce the excess, not remove the protection.

What exactly should I do for oily skin?

These are the AAD's key tips for oily skin, in my words:

Should I skip moisturiser because my skin is oily?

This is the question I get most, and the answer is no. The AAD is clear: even oily skin needs moisturiser after cleansing to stay hydrated. Skin that dries out tries to compensate, and the compensation shows up as shine.

The right moisturiser for oily skin is light, absorbs quickly and is labelled non-comedogenic. If it contains sunscreen, your morning routine is one step shorter.

Does an alcohol toner reduce shine?

It gives the feeling that your face is «dry and clean», but that feeling is temporary. The AAD advises people with oily skin to avoid oil-based and alcohol-based cleansers because they irritate the skin, and advises people with acne to avoid toners and astringents because they dry the skin and make acne look worse.

And irritated skin, according to the AAD, can produce more oil. So instead of a strong toner, focus on the base: a gentle cleanser, a light moisturiser and sunscreen.

Why is only my forehead and nose shiny while my cheeks are normal?

That is combination skin, which the AAD describes as dry in some areas and oily in others. Some women I have worked with have it the other way round: shine on the cheeks, dryness on the forehead and chin.

This is where many people go wrong: they put a strong routine on the whole face, so the dry areas get drier and the oily areas stay oily. The fix is often the same products, just not used the same way across the whole face.

What about ingredients that reduce oil?

The AAD notes that ingredients such as salicylic, glycolic and lactic acid can help reduce oiliness, but they may be too harsh for some skin, and if your skin becomes irritated you should stop or use them less often. In other words, the right ingredient at the wrong dose takes you back to square one.

Quick questions

Does a strong cleanser reduce oil?

No. According to the AAD, a harsh cleanser irritates the skin and can trigger more oil. A gentle foaming cleanser works better.

How often should I wash my face if my skin is oily?

Up to twice a day and after sweating, without scrubbing.

Your plan, not a general one

Everything above is general guidance from the sources. What suits your skin, in which order and how often is what Amina arranges once she has read your skin — and she follows you on it every day.

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Sources

  1. AAD — How to control oily skin
  2. AAD — Face washing 101
  3. AAD — How to safely exfoliate at home
  4. AAD — Skin care on a budget